March 4, 2014 by SummerMaker
The tailored jacket block is suitable for jackets with collars and revers. but as ever can be adapted to suit your purpose.
Measurements can be used from the standard measurement chart or your own.
Square down from P0, square halfway across the block
P0 to P1 = 1.75cm
P1 to P2= neck to waist measurement, square across
P1 to P3 = required jacket length, square across
P2 to P4= waist to hip measurement, square across
P1 to P5 = Armscye depth plus 3cm; square across
P1 to P6 = half the measurement of P1 to P5; square out in both directions
P5 to P8 = half the back width measurement plus 1cm; square up to P9 and P10
P10 to P11 = 2cm; square out in both directions
P0 to P12 = one fifth of the neck size; draw neck curve
P12-P13 = shoulder length plus 1.5cm.
P5 to P14 = half the bust measurement plus 8cm, square up; square down to P15 and P16
P14 to P17 = same as the measurement from P0 to P2 (add an extra 0.5cm for each size above a size 14)
P17 to P18 = one fifth the neck size plus 1cm
P17 to P19= one fifth neck size; draw in neck curve and join P18 to P10.
P18 to P20 = shoulder measurement plus dart allowance plus 0.5cm.
P18-P21 = one third shoulder measurement
P21-P22 = dart measurement
P14 to P23 = half the chest measurement plus half the measurement from P21 to P22 plus 1cm; square up
P23 to P24 = one third the measurement from P14 to P19
P23 to P25 = half the measurement from P14 to P23; square down to P26 and P27. Join P21 to P25 and P22 to P25 You need to ensure that the dart lines are the same length and therefore re-mark point 22 just above its previous position at the correct length.
P20 to P28 = 2cm. Join P28 to P22 with a slight curve
P23 to P29 = half the measurement from P8 to P23; square down to P30 and P31
As with all previous Armscye you will need to draw on the Armscye line through Points 13, 9, 29, 24 and 28 using balance points at a 45 degree angle from points 8 and 23 to gain the correct curve. These are:
Sizes 6-8 from P8 2cm from P23 1.5cm
Sizes 10-14 from P8 2.25cm and from P23 1.75cm
Sizes 16 – 20 from P8 2.75cm and from P23 2.25cm
To shape the front in a classic style you will need to add the required button stand. As this is related to the overall design of the garment I can’t give you a set measurement, but if you were using a 1.5cm button, you might want a 3cm stand. Use the stand measurement to mark points 32 and 33 on waistline and hemline.
P33 to P34 = 1cm, join P31 to P34 with a curve
P32 to P35 = one third the measurement P32 to P34
P34 to P36 = one fifth the measurement P31 to P34, draw in the front curve.
Now, you could just leave your block here, but it would be lacking a certain élan, mainly in the form of waist shaping. You can add in waist shaping to any bodice block and there are various ways of doing so – I’m including it here because it is more of an integral part of the finished block than in the close- and easy-fitting bodices. I will also be covering waist shaping in a future post about adapting the bodice blocks, but for now we’ll just focus on this one method, shown in the smaller of the example illustrations above.
P2 to P37 = 1.5cm, drawing a curved line from P30 to P3
P37 to P38 = 1.5cm
P3 to P39 = 0.5cm; re-draw the back seam line though points 6, 38 and 39.
Now you need to construct the darts. A dart is basically a diamond shape created in garment panels without the need for a separate seam, which nips the fabric in to create shape and definition. The lines of the dart meet each other at their respective ends and widen out to a specific measurement, usually on a waist or hipline.
The back dart starts midway between P5 and P8 on the Armscye depth line, square down to hit the curved line from P37 to P38. The dart widens out to 2cm wide at this point then joins back together on the squared down line, 7cm above the hipline.
The front dart meets the dart at P25 and also widens to 2cm on the waistline, before finishing 5cm above the hipline.
The dart at the side seam will look slightly strange because you will now be causing the back and front pieces to overlap. On the illustration the back side seam is coloured in green, whilst the front side seam is blue.
On the back side seam widen the dart by 1.5cm on the waistline but extend the hemline 1.5cm to create the overlapping shape.
Similarly on the front side seam widen it by 2cm at the waistline but extend the hemline by 1cm.
Should your jacket be longer than hip length, you merely continue the dart lines along their trajectory until they hit the length required.
That’s the body block done; from here you would in all likelihood draft a two pieced sleeve to sit with it, as well as a collar.
But we shall move on to collars anon.